Tel Aviv – vibrancy and culture

Visiting friends in Tel Aviv, the city was a perfect base and where British Airways handily deposited us in comfort. I had two favourite cities – Singapore and Washington. I now have three – TLV has vibrancy and culture like Singers, cleanliness and safety like DC and a big dollop of South Beach to make it fresh and fun! Even a short glance at my previous post would tell you how blown away we were by our trip! There’s an immense amount to see and do… More than 5 letters worth…

A IS FOR ACCOMMODATION

The most incredible choice – from apartments, to small independent hotels to massive chain hotels to boutique luxury – something for everyone. We always knew one place we had to (HAD to) spend a couple of days and so chose to spend our time across two locations. I actually cancelled the first hotel I booked because it turned out it was right next to a building site (development is booming) and I didn’t want to gaze at workmen over my balcony morning coffee…

To commence our trip we stayed at The SavoY Hotel which is mere metres from the beach. This is a small and independent hotel – dotted along the waterfront are all the big chain hotels and this was one of the nicest looking boutiques I found. Our room was big, quiet and comfortable and our bathroom had a Jacuzzi bath. We also had a little kitchen area however all we did was keep water in the fridge – Tel Aviv is not a place to spend cooped up in the hotel! There is a stunning roof terrace which is what really sold it, offering a splendid sunset vista, accompanied with the daily happy hour. Breakfast is included and the buffet spread has simple salads, breads, cakes etc. Water and coffee are available all day too. Perfect location for beach and city access alike and a good price.

For the final couple of nights we moved on to The Norman. We mentioned this to our friend’s friends when we were out on the first night and their reaction told us what we needed – this was THE place to stay. It wasn’t a cheap stay but it was worth every penny – justified as a treat for my promotion! It is the only SLH property in Israel and deservedly so. It has something very Chedi-esque about it which appealed, but it also delights because of its small size. It’s only been open a year but in that time it has made its mark. On trip advisor I mentioned that I didn’t think concierge or bar staff met the incredible standards of the reception, restaurant and pool staff and immediately the hotel contacted me to say teams had been briefed – problems are being learnt from quickly. Our room was sumptuous – simple and in muted tones yet comfortable and luxurious. I was particularly taken by the button for the curtains – what else in a hi-tech city?

Our room was in the old building with lovely high ceilings, the suites are in a new annex – connected cleverly to the old using a glass topped atrium which has a stunning poem called ‘Castle in the Sand’ sculpted the height of the building. The piéce de resistance (apart from the breakfast) was the pool. Rooftop pools are few and far between in Tel Aviv and small hotels just don’t have the space.  But The Norman does with stunning views of the city from a peaceful enclave with glass windbreaks and super-cool chill-out music . It was hard to tear ourselves away, but there are lovely gardens if you want a change of scenery! There are two restaurants and ‘Dinings’ apparently serves marvellous sushi. Where would I stay next time? Definitely The Norman for at least a night!

B IS FOR BEACH

The beach is stunning and runs the length of the city – in fact the length of the country, but anyway… You can walk from Jaffa at the south, north to the marina and popular Hilton beach for surfing. Fresh from the plane at 7am we joined the pre-work crowd running, strolling or out for a paddle. There are many life-guard stations, I think it is fair to say they’d go in the water if they had to, but the preference sounded to be on controlling the beach with loud-hailer! There are lots of wave-breaks about 50 metres offshore which protects the beach but also creates some great waves for surfing and SUP. The sand is the softest and finest I’ve come across – it’s from northern Egypt and the wave-breaks are keeping it in place. If you have time you should play the Israeli national sport ‘Matkot’ or at least stroll the sidewalk or relax in one of the many beach bars…

I remember last summer getting excited on a night sail about the fact we ‘got’ to see a sunset and the boys saying – ‘why is that exciting, we get them every day’… Well indeed they do. Not just because it is sunny all the time, but because the beach faces west so you are treated to a theatrical performance every night. Enjoy the show with a sundowner at one of the many bars. Even in golden hour the beach will buzz with tourists and locals, and plenty of games of matkot.

C IS FOR CULTURE

Just walking distance from the city you will find Jaffa – one of the oldest ports in the world. Stunning with narrow and steep little streets within its old walls. The waterfront has been developed into a(nother) hip area for food and drink with gift shops dotted through the old town. It’s a ramshackle place and lovely to clamber around – so many buildings and doors to admire. We climbed to the top to the gardens where not only is there a stunning view of Jaffa, but also you can see the length of Tel Aviv beach front and across the city – from old to new. We visited a fabulous art gallery which I would definitely recommend, saw the rock of Andromeda and also spotted the makings of a W hotel which interested me (if done well). A bustling place. The flea market is great fun to explore. I was pleased to find myself a much-needed sunhat, but of course managed to buy it in an expensive shop not in the market – quelle surprise!..

You do not need to go looking for sites of interest to find them, there are many.  Take in the beautiful Bauhaus architecture around Rothschild, visit Rabin’s memorials by the city buildings, stoll through the theatre district around Habima square, wander past the shops on Shenkin (they were shut when we did thank goodness) .  It’s a flat city so just walk and enjoy whatever appears in front of you – just like Venice there is always something new to see and a mix of architecture and age!

North of the city in Herzliya is a big marina and another buzzing area for food and drink. Herzliya is also where many of the most expensive or ambassadorial waterfront houses are and where many of the big businesses are based (sea view from the office – yes please). We headed up here to borrow a yacht for a sail up the coast from Via Maris.  Perfect azure seas and a lovely view along the coast of old ports and castles as well as some quirky caves and an elegant mosque.

D IS FOR DRINKS (AND FOOD)

It is important to live like a local.  Rothschild Boulevard is a lovely sun-dappled tree-lined avenue and every 20 or so metres you will find a coffee kiosk.  Stopping here is something of an institution, the place to see and be seen.

The locals like to party as much as they like coffee – is this why they can still get up early? We had two great nights out. Firstly at Silvia Bumper on our first evening. Beer and chasers were de rigeur, accompanied by great soundtrack and great company. Another afternoon we went to Dizzy’s – here we were introduced to the wristband system. Alcohol can be expensive and so bars have a set fee which awards you a wrist band like at an all-inclusive and your drinks just keep coming… A good idea apparently, we were definitely in the party atmosphere and a lovely time was spent sheltering from the sweltering afternoon sun at high tables doing like a local!

I have already raved about the places we ate on our visit but just to remind you – Tel Aviv is a foodies dream. You will not go hungry in this city and because so much of the food is healthy, hopefully you won’t put on too many pounds either! Falafel, hummus, shakshuka, coffee, cake, burgers, gastro, kiosks, cakes – you name it, you’ll find it, and it will be tasty!  There are also 24/7 bakeries, so when I say you can’t get hungry, I really mean it!

E FOR EVEN MORE NEXT TIME

There’s such a lot more for us still to see in and around the city – rarely have we found such vibrant, historical, modern and culture places to explore in one place and what’s more it is safe and easy and flat! Something for everyone – it is blessed with the amazing food and weather the Middle East brings but with a culture that is incredibly European!  I’m pretty sure I can complete the A-Z with a few more days there, we could hire bikes and follow our noses from dawn until dusk!