AN INTIMATE SUPPER AT EVELYN’S TABLE

When you find a food style you enjoy… Stick to it. We were taken to Machneyuda when we were in Jerusalem. And to our delight, there’s a growing list of restaurants in London run by the same group. I’m pleased to say we have now enjoyed them all. Each slightly different, but all excellent. Our first stop was the Palomar which is truly excellent, a calmer version of the hectic Machneyuda. Then its little brother The Barbary which is smaller bar-style supper venue with food of the Levant. And we’ve enjoyed coffee and cake at Jacob the Angel in Neal’s Yard.

And so, for our 8th wedding anniversary, we visited the latest – Evelyn’s Table. On its own website it describes itself as a ‘kitchen counter in a former bar cellar’. That is exactly what it is but there is so much more to this charming restaurant, which also has a pub and a cocktail bar. I would recommend starting upstairs in The Mulwray for cocktails. Up a few sets of narrow stairs and ever so civilised. A world away from the bustling Soho street outside!

First service in the basement starts at 5.30. Behind the private door is a narrow space with 11 seats along the kitchen counter. A couple of high tables have recently been added so that 15 can now be catered for. As with the other restaurants, there’s always a few spots held for walk-in punters, so booking isn’t essential (but I would recommend it)!

It’s a very intimate and moody space. The room itself is quite dark and there are cute little down-lighters along the counter to light up the food.

And sat at the counter is always the best place for a fun meal. You have your chosen dinner guest to your side. And a constant stream of activity and excitement in the kitchen to enjoy. There is no time to get bored! And the kitchen team are calm and chatty throughout your time there.

The menu is not massive, but it is fascinating and there’s something for everyone. Definitely food you wouldn’t think to make at home! The food here is European, rather than with an Israeli influence, but with a similar style to the other restaurants in the stable. I can’t eat dairy and I hate putting this on a restaurant booking as it is a real faff for the chef. But at Evelyn’s Table they didn’t bat an eyelid. I’d almost say the head chef enjoyed the challenge, but was probably grateful we didn’t order more dishes!

We started with bread (not pictured, we devoured it), baked artichokes and pasta. The artichoke was incredible. Baked skins, pureed insides and roasted hazelnuts. Sounds so simple, but tasted so good. Definitely something I want more of! This was swiftly followed by pappardelle with broad beans and olives. Made for us in olive oil (rather than butter) with parmesan on the side for Mr P. So fresh, simple and delicious.

Next up was more artichoke! How many ways can you eat it in one night?! This time deep fried. Again an approach we hadn’t tried before. But delicious – crunchy on the outside and soft inside! Mr P had his with an artichoke and creme fraiche puree and mine came with pickled hop stems.

With our smaller dishes enjoyed it was time to go back to watching the hard work in the kitchen. With just 15 seats at Evelyn’s Table the kitchen team is 3 chefs, and 2 serving staff. But they work efficiently and smoothly – you won’t be left waiting for long. It is fascinating to watch things come together. The amount of pre-preparation in fridges under the counter. Or the perfectly sized pans used for each dish.

On our evening for the main dishes there was a choice between lemon sole and scallop for the fish course. We opted for our much-loved scallops. Below is just half the dish, served with olives, crispy white artichoke and a creamy sauce. My half was separately prepared with a different sauce. Perfectly cooked with divine tastes and textures.

Our meat course was a choice between lamb and dairy cow. We opted for the beef having not tried dairy cow before. Not in the slightest bit tough and an entirely different texture to a normal steak. Below is just one half of the meal again, with creamy mashed potato, courgettes and mushrooms. I had a separate plate for my half with some extra vegetables. Super tasty and particularly enjoyable as it wasn’t a common-or-garden steak but something we haven’t seen on the menu before.

We finished our meal with a scoop of homemade sorbet chatting happily to the chef team about what a fantastic meal we’d had. We love all of the restaurants in the group but what stood out for me here was how relaxing and intimate this one is. It isn’t in the slightest bit busy or prissy because it is just a small room with a finite number of diners. The menu is really clever and thoughtful. And most importantly the staff are friendly and helpful. One of the best meals we’ve had in a long time!

A great way to spend our 8th anniversary. It’s also inspired me to dig out my Palomar cookbook. And… Investigate the latest horse to the stable – Balagan in Paris!