Flashback Friday Travel 36 – The Cote d’Azur

It isn’t all high glamour and high prices on the Cote d’Azur – we had a fantastic week there in August 2012 and found relaxed and charming places to visit.  We did of course go off in search of the glamorous areas, and dine out fantastically on one evening – but life is all about balance.  So let me introduce you to Eze.  It is maybe 30 minutes drive from Nice airport and just look at it – perched on a rock looking down on the Mediterranean – just stunning.  Eze is famous for having 2 very high luxury hotels – Chateau Eza and La Chevre d’Or.  But as one might expect for an area this stunning, there are other choices too.  The moment I started looking at photos I was sold on the area (and on a dinner at Chateau Eza, more later) and did some more research.Up the hill, a little way inland and near to where this photo was taken is the boutique, rustic and very relaxing Eze Hermitage which was perfect for us.  It is perhaps a 5 minute drive from the village, and is nestled in the hill on the edge of a national park perfect for walks and picnics.  Given that it isn’t built on a cliff it also has plenty of space, gardens and a large enough swimming pool.  We spent plenty of time at the hotel – enjoying the sunshine and peace and quiet. The hotel food was tasty and good value, we enjoyed evenings dining in the garden.

Eze, as you might have guessed from the photo, is a ‘village perché’ or perched village.  It isn’t however the only one – there are plenty!  We spent a day visiting a few more as we were very taken with the architecture.  St Paul de Vence is the other famous one and is stunning, but it is busy (multi-story car park on village outskirts) so I would recommend looking elsewhere to explore better.  We were very struck by Peillon and Peille where we were the only non-locals wandering around and which were well worth the winding roads and steep inclines to reach.  I believe there are lots of self-catering cottages in these villages too, interesting for another trip perhaps.  We had a lovely French lunch in one of the villages – again the only English people – perfect!

Eze village you will  need at least a day to spend exploring.  Wear flat shoes, there are cobbles and steps all over the place.  We saw plenty of people tottering in high heels through the streets to the luxury hotels and it looked pretty treacherous!  The climb up to the gardens a the top is well worth it, even in the heat, as the views are stunning and the gardens are incredibly relaxing.  Before heading into the village, there are little bakeries and cafes by the main-road – we breakfasted here most days.  I don’t smoke and normally hate the smell, but there is something very relaxing about great French orange juice, coffee and a croissant in a café, sat next to someone puffing away on a Gauloise cigarette!

The real treat of our holiday was splurging on supper at Chateau Eza.  Quite incredible.  The Menu Degustation was certainly an ‘investment’ but it was truly fabulous – an amazing view, incredible food and attentive service.

It isn’t possible to head to this part of France and not go and see the glamour that draws so many people to this popular area.  We did of course visit Monaco and had an enjoyable afternoon pottering around.  I would recommend finding a table at Café de Paris and ordering a bottle of rosé, wearing sunglasses and chilling out whilst people (and car) watching – a fascinating place indeed. 

It is a great area to visit, I am sure we will go back one day! My full list of recommendations is featured on A Luxury Travel Blog.  I had been worried that August would be too hot but these are the Alpes Maritimés and so there are cool breezes too.  But as a true Brit when times got desperate I sought out Lipton tea in the shade which kept me going nicely!