We visited Zakynthos in May 2024 for a week. We arrived with very few plans. In fact with very little research about Zakynthos whatsoever, just a couple of dinner bookings! We followed our noses and had a wonderful week.
Zakynthos is a laid back little Ionian Island. You can drive from top to bottom in less than 45 minutes and east to west in even less. So it’s very easy to see a lot of the island and still have a relaxing time.
Zante, as the island is also known, is far more synonymous with rowdy resorts and boozy nightlife than the laid back unspoilt spots that Zakynthos is blessed with. Thankfully we didn’t see much evidence of ‘Zante’! I think we have to thank The Peligoni which has clearly established something of a different vibe on the island. There are of course busy places – Lagunas is the clubbing district and Tsilivi and Alykes the resort towns. But thankfully there is a more more sedate, unspoilt and rural side to the island.
The west coast is rugged and rural. The east coast is flatter with some sandy stretches as well as white pebble beaches. The interior has some mountains as well as an extensive plain which is heavily farmed for olives. There are no motorways, a drive across the island on winding country roads is rather beautiful.
We found in May that the island was just waking up for the season. Nearly everything was open, but nothing was manic. It was the perfect time to discover a new island, especially because with mid to high twenty degree temperatures it wasn’t uncomfortable to have a mooch around.
Zakynthos Town
Interestingly for Greece, there is no old town. Most of the city was flattened by an earthquake in the 1950’s. Thankfully it has been well rebuilt and we had a lovely early evening wander before dinner. There are plenty of places to stop for dinner, toy shops a plenty, boutique clothing stores and ice cream sellers. A busy place but a nice size.
Private boat trip
There are many large ferry type cruises that you can book that go round the island. We choose instead to book a private boat with a skipper for half a day. We boarded at Lagunas (so we got to see that sight!!) and took the boat out to see the turtles, over to Marathonisi Island and on to see the Keri Caves and swim at a private beach. It was a lovely treat and the right length of time on the water for a 5 year old. We used Serene Private Cruises.
Navagio Shipwreck Beach
We chose to see this from the view point above and decided an early morning visit was the best time to avoid a crowd. We had it to ourselves which I think is a good thing as the viewing platform is tiny. We took our breakfast and enjoyed the view. Nearby there is a monastery as well as the village of Volimes which is just one bit of the island that wasn’t devastated by the earthquake.
Beaches
We found that the nicest beaches are attached to restaurants and beach bars. No bad thing – facilities and far less busy than they would otherwise be. As a result we tended to make an occasion of the day by going out for lunch and spending the rest of the time on the beach at the restaurant.
We did take a trip up to Alykes one morning but it was too resorty, British and busy. Lovely sand, lovely view, but full of people. Zigia sulphur beach we stopped at briefly as it sounded interesting, but it was hectic looking, breezeless and hot, so we didn’t stay.
Shoestring Beach and restaurant
One of our favourite places, we visited twice. It was a chance discovery because we saw their rustic signs along the road near our villa and were intrigued. The bar and restaurant has a chilled out Caribbean look and feel to it. The food is fresh and fantastic and the staff super friendly and attentive. The beach is beautiful – a large protected cove. It’s a narrow strip of sand with loungers dotted along it. The water is so clear and full of fish to snorkel with.
Andreas’ Fish Taverna
3 minutes walk from where we were staying this place really is a treat. We were recommended to go there by our villa host. It’s the kind of place that doesn’t realise how good it actually is and is even more charming as a result. The front of house is also charming. We went three times and ate like royalty every time. An excellent wine list too. There’s a stony beach here, good for paddling or open water swimming. This bit of the coast is sleepy, with clusters of holiday apartments and private villas.
Mikro Nisi
Owned by the Peligoni Club this restaurant serves up Greek tapas. It is very cool and laid back and people arrive by water taxi from nearby bays. It’s in a little cove and has a tiny beach as well as plenty of decking to enjoy a drink in the sunshine. It’s got a rustic look, but it is actually pretty luxe. The food we had here was exceptional and quite fun to eat tapas style. I would imagine it is one of the pricier places on the island.
Nobelos Bio
Surprisingly child friendly given it is attached to a 5* boutique hotel. The finest dining we had on our trip, including a lobster that our 5 year old selected. The seating on the cliffs above their little pebble beach makes for spectacular views. The food was divine, the service attentive. If you spend 50Euros/head (buy a lobster) then you are also able to make use of the loungers and the private hotel beach. We had a wonderful afternoon here.
A continued love of Greece
Our visit to Zayknthos has given us the appetite to explore more Greek islands. We loved the slower pace than we are used to from Crete. Just because it is smaller doesn’t mean there is less to do. I think we ate some of the best food we’ve had in our many visits to Greece. The ‘fast’ food scene of moussaka/gyros/salad etc was of such a high quality. There are less sandy beaches than you might find in other places but as everything is on a smaller scale it’s just a little bit more relaxing.
We booked our Zakynthos holiday with Think Villa who we have used a number of times now. Our villa was perfection, on the east coast in a quiet location with the most incredible views.
